1) Select a suitable location for planting. Some plants like sunny locations; others prefer more shade. Plants also differ in their tolerance to soil types, pH, moisture, wind, and other factors. Avoid extremely wet soils because they may favor many root disorders.
2) Practice rotation in your garden plot. If possible, change the location of the entire garden occasionally, to help prevent the buildup of disease-causing organisms. Even when a garden is maintained in the same location, it is important to rotate specific crops to a different area of the garden each year. An example of a poor rotation is tomato followed by eggplant followed by potato since all are susceptible to similar pathogens. A better rotation is tomato, followed by corn, beans, or lettuce.
3) Select disease-resistant varieties where they are available and adapted to your growing conditions. Lists of resistant plants can be found in many texts and seed catalogues.
Plant resistant cultivars when 1) minimum maintenance is desired (home grounds, rights of way, low-budget operations); 2) inoculum is always present; 3) environmental conditions usually favor disease at some time; or 4) adequate chemical controls are not available.
Using susceptible cultivars is acceptable when 1) inoculum is rarely present, 2) environmental conditions rarely favor disease development, 3) or intensive management practices are being used. Non-host species should be used when the pathogen has a very wide host range and cannot be eliminated from a site and when no resistant cultivars of the disease-prone plant are available .
4) Use only disease-free seed and transplants. Buy seeds and plants from a reputable source. Many disease-causing organisms are carried to your garden on seeds and transplants.
5) Maintain soil fertility through careful use of fertilizers, soil amendments, costs, etc. Plants that are too weak or too vigorous as a result of improper fertilization will be more subject to diseases.
6) Do not overcrowd your plants. The high humidity that results beneath the plant canopy may favor certain fungal diseases. Thin your plants to permit free air movement.
7) Water properly. Try to maintain an even water supply and avoid dry-wet fluctuations. Drip systems and soaker hoses are better than overhead sprinklers.
8) Control insect pests. Some insects spread diseases to other plants if they remain in the garden.
9) Destroy and remove diseased plants as soon as you observe them. They may serve as a source of spread to others plants if they remain in the garden. Do not compost diseased plant parts.
10) Spade under or compost crop refuse as soon as possible after harvesting the garden. This not only recycles some good organic matter to the soil, but also removes the possibility of disease-causing organisms remaining overwinter in the garden.
11) Be alert to leaf diseases that occur annually on certain
plants and take care of them early, before the damage becomes so severe
that the plant is lost.
Sanitation - Proactive
Plant Disease Management
Many plant diseases spend the winter in foliage and plant material left
from the summer. A good way to reduce winter survival of the disease organisms
is to remove old plant material and compost it or dispose of it. Composting
healthy plant material can recycle the nutrients and organic matter it
contains, feeding your soil.
Debris should be burned, buried, or hot-composted if it comes from
areas where disease was a problem last season, such as debris from rose
bushes infected with blackspot, or vegetable beds where powdery mildew
caused problems. High temperatures are essential to kill the disease organisms,
so make sure your compost pile reaches internal temperatures of 140- 160F
to kill the disease organisms if you choose to compost materials that come
from problem areas. Do not compost plant material infected with viral diseases;
place these materials in sealed containers and dispose of them in your
trash. After working with diseased plant material, sterilize tools in solution
of one part household bleach mixed with nine parts of water to avoid transporting
the pathogens to another part of your yard.
Removal of old raspberry canes is also a good idea because they can
serve as a harborage for diseases such as anthracnose. These sanitation
measures can help keep your yard and garden disease-free.
References:
Pirone, P., J. Hartman, M. Sall, and T. Pirone. 1988. Tree Maintenance.
Sixth Edition. Oxford Univ. Press, New York, NY 10016. 514 pp.
Controlling Vegetable Pests; Environmentally Friendly Gardening. 1991. C. Putnam, Project Ed. Ortho Books, Chevron Chem. Co., San Ramon, CA 94583. 160 pp.
Ellis, B.W. and F. Marshall. 1991. The Organic Gardner's Handbook of
Natural Insect and Disease Control: A Complete Problem-Solving Guide to
Keeping Your Garden and Yard Healthy Without Chemicals. Rodale Press, Emmaus,
Pennsylvania. 418 pp.
Written by Sherry Lajeunesse, Extension Urban Pest Management Specialist.
Sept., 1997
Howard, R., J. Garland, and W. Seaman. 1994. Diseases and Pests of Vegetable Crops in Canada, An llustrated Compendium. The Canadian Phytopathological Society and the Entomological Society of Canada, Ottawa, Ont. Canada K2A 1Y8. 554 pp.
Sinclair, W., et al. 1987. Diseases of Trees and Shrubs. Cornell Univ. Press, Ithaca, N.Y. 576 pp.
Turfgrass Compendium. The American Phytopathological Society Disease
Compendia Series, St. Paul, Minnesota. 126 pp.
Written by Sherry Lajeunesse, Extension Urban Pest
Management Specialist. Sept., 1997